I have to admit I was starving for some city action by the time I walked into Arras, and it didn’t disappoint. One of the realities of many small French villages is that they may be picturesque, but very few shops or restaurants are open – even in the larger villages – and almost no one is out on the streets. It can seem like you are walking through a deserted landscape. After a few days of that, you really begin to crave the energy of other people and the options a real city can provide. Arras exceeded my expectations in many respects.
The city has an ancient history with much of the city center constructed in the Middle Ages. My hotel, the Hotel Les Trois Luppars, was originally built in the 14th century and then was reconstructed in 1467 after sustaining damage during the Hundred Years War. Evidence of its age were the low beams and door heights on my floor that I had to be conscious of not banging my head on. There were also exposed hand-carved beams in my room.
Of course, it’s the people who make any place, and Arras has a beautiful mix.
I will spare you geeking out on the incredible history of Arras with one exception: Arras was just inside the front line during World War I, and, as a result, it was shelled relentlessly for over two years. Few of it buildings were spared damage, but their Hotel de Ville (city hall) with its gothic clock tower, constructed in 1517, was destroyed by the bombing. Fortunately, it was meticulously reconstructed in the 1920s.
For a city I knew nothing about before arriving, I left completely fascinated by its history, its architecture, and its energy.
