Jougne to the Swiss Border and then to Orbes
Map Clarification
Jougne is the last significant village in France on the Via Francigena, which means that I had to convert to the next app map that begins at the Swiss border. The map on the left shows the Via Francigena until the Swiss border. The map on the right picks up at the Swiss border.
An Easy Stroll into Switzerland
From Jougne to the Swiss border is an easy, downhill walk of only 5kms. Shortly after leaving Jougne, the trail passes the Saint Maurice Chapel, a 12th-century church. As I was passing, a man was hauling two large sacks into the church on a wooden-wheeled cart that looked like it could have been a scene from the 12th century.
After walking 172kms from London to Dover and then another 1,002kms across France, I finally made it across the Swiss border on Friday, June 12, just after 11:00 a.m. There is a new wooden shack about 50 yards before the border, but it isn’t manned, and it looks more like a shelter than a guard station. Otherwise, the only thing to note you are crossing an international border is a stone monument and a fence with an opening but no actual gate. It’s quite refreshing to know that borders don’t always have to be battlegrounds.
After the very tranquil border crossing, I put my unneeded passport back in my pack and carried on into the Gorges de l’Orbe, a beautiful canyon through which the Via Francigena follows an ancient trail along the River Orbe for 17kms. Along the way, the trail is enclosed by pine forests and passes through numerous tunnels carved through projections in the canyon walls. The River Orbe runs clear through the canyon, and it is a very popular trout fishery.
As I was nearing the end of the canyon, I ran across this guy, who didn’t immediately take off. In fact, he seemed quite comfortable with my presence. I believe it is a chamois, but I invite any better identification.
Next stop: Cossonay, where it really begins to feel like Switzerland.
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5 Responses
Charles:
Congratulations on making it to Switzerland. Sometimes your trek had seemed much more character building than fun.
After 1174 kms completed, dare I ask how many more to Rome?
Is your progress on the Via Francigena verified at way stations that record the times and dates that you passed a certain location? Do you have some sort of route map or passbook that contains stamps or other tangible record of your pilgrimage? If so, does getting to the way stations when they are open present a problem?
Dave Miller
Thank you! There have definitely been times when it was more of a Type 2 fun experience (Not fun to do, but fun in retrospect) rather that Type 1 fun (Fun to do, and fun to remember), but I really have enjoyed it all. The toughest part of the whole walk thus far is almost always the last 5km of a long day. That’s when your pack is very heavy; your feet are sore, and you are having trouble seeing the amazing things around you. You are just done and ready for a shower, a meal, and bed. But I’ve also learned to expect that.
I can do the math pretty easily because I bought two guides today in Lausanne: One for Lausanne to Lucca, and another one for Lucca to Rome. To Lucca is 726kms, and Lucca to Rome is 411kms for a total of 1,137kms. I didn’t realize that I was at the halfway point! I need to pick up the pace! Actually, I should be able to make pretty good time across Italy because there are more accommodations, which means that I don’t have to stutter-step the daily distance as much because I can’t get a room where I need one (or, at least, that is my working theory for now).
I have a “credential” or passport that I try to get stamped in most overnight stops or other significant places along the way. Usually, the person stamping my credential will date it. That’s really it for verification. At the end, I think the Vatican operates on a preponderance of evidence rule. If you wanted to cheat, you certainly can, but the loss is yours. And yes, a lot of churches along the way aren’t open or aren’t manned. Some will leave a stamp out for you to use yourself, but most do not. That’s why it’s important to get them when you can. For instance, I got one here in Lausanne yesterday at the Lausanne Office of Tourism, but I really wanted one from the cathedral, so I went there this morning, and they were able to give me a cathedral stamp, which is just plain cooler than the Office of Tourism stamp.
P.S. I made a reservation today for later this week at an abbey, and they require you to show your credential to allow you to stay there. There will be a lot more of those going forward.
The scenery on this leg of the trip is the most beautiful, so far. Wish I was there to see it in person. The easy entry into Switzerland on the trail indicates they welcome the pilgrims and have no concern about their intentions. It’s like the Rio Grande at Boquias, Mexico and Big Bend Park. Graveyards with fresh water may be scarce in the mountains. Wish you had made a deal on that French donkey, Bro.
Good luck on the second half of the pilgrimage.0
The Boquillas crossing on the Rio Grande is one of my favorite places in the world. It is so simple and real and beautiful. In 2015, my dad and I went over in one of the rowboats, rode donkeys into the village, and had enchiladas for lunch. It’s one of my favorite memories.