My hotel in Santhià had seen better days, but it served the purpose, and my beer before dinner provided further confirmation that the Italians provide a great deal on a simple beer.
I left Santhià at 6:00 a.m., but I should have left earlier for the 28km walk to Vercelli. The good news is that the trail is almost completely flat except for the occasional railroad or road crossing. The bad news is that it is exposed the entire way, and it starts getting quite warm now by 10:30. I want to try hard to be off the trail by 1:00 p.m. from now on. It’s not just the heat by then. It’s the fact that you have already been walking a long time in the heat; your feet are swollen, and no matter how much you drink, it’s not enough.
A mid-morning coffee and brioche break in San Germano did help out a lot, but those are hard to predict.
With a final rest stop at a lonely church that provided a bench with shade, I finally made it to a coffee shop in Vercelli for a glorious coffee and a cold water before checking into my blessedly air-conditioned room.
Vercelli
Vercelli is an agricultural center that is often called “The Rice Capital of Europe”. Rice has been grown in the area since the Renaissance era. The city can trace its roots back to 600 B.C. when it was a key settlement of the Libici tribe. 500 years later, the city became a significant Roman settlement, and Roman ruins are scattered throughout the city.
I took a much-needed rest day here, and as I type this, there is wonderful jazz and big band music wafting in through the window of my room as the city begins the annual summer civic festival known as Notte Bianca (White Night). The streets are filled with tables and there is live music throughout the city. Many vendors and shops will remain open past midnight, and many people will celebrate through the night, although I was assured by my B&B host that the music ends at midnight. We’ll see.
Next up: Either 19kms to Robbio or 34kms to Mortara dependent upon my ability to find a room.
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8 Responses
Congrats on being in Italy, dear Charles!!! We talk about you often and send you well wishes in general and especially as you walk in the heat. Keep going brother!!! – Genah and Jean-Francois
You don’t know how much I needed that encouragement tonight as I ponder a long day tomorrow! I hope you are both well and that you are planning your next adventure. Please come to Galveston, but I suggest October or later!
Such beautiful pictures…Michelle and I
Are heading to the UK and France in less than two weeks, so thanks for preparing our minds that it may be quite warm.. also reminders that hydration (coffee,
Beer, wine and water) must be consumed judiciously…continued safe travels. Happy 4th!!🇺🇸🇺🇸
It’s like most hot places we know well. You just don’t plan any serious, extended outdoor activities between noon and 6:00 p.m. Even if you don’t have AC in your hotel room, it’s manageable if you have a fan, but one or the other is essential.
Whatever the weather, I am confident you will have a wonderful trip. I look forward to seeing photos and hearing about it when we all get back. In fact, Becca and I are inviting you to share a glass of wine with us at the Tremont at a time and date to be determined.
Charles, you are making incredible progress! Passing through a gap between Torino and Milan. It’s hard to believe that you’re on flatland and out of the mountains. You’re are making us proud!
Scott Spencer
I am beginning to believe that I might actually make it to Rome! And I think I’ve figured out how to handle the heat. I simply have to get up early enough that I can break the back of the day’s walk well before noon because anything after that becomes a death march.
You casually mention sore feet. Knowing you, the problem is worse than you are letting on. I hope the rest did your feet some good. Maybe rest is the only cure for the strain. Wear two socks and take a
“Smoke break” every 90 minutes or so?
You are a tough man. The Pope should give you a medal
I will admit that my feet were hobbling me for a couple of weeks after I bought new boots in Lausanne, used them for two days until I couldn’t walk any further in them, and then threw them away when I couldn’t find anyone to take them (that was really hard to do, but I couldn’t figure anything else out, and they were too heavy to carry). I am finally on the healing side of that process, though, and today was a very long walk, but my feet weren’t an active problem. There is no doubt, though, that I will not be getting any calls for foot modeling assignments anytime soon!